Beginner Crochet Resources

  • 📺 https://www.youtube.com/@MargaretMakesThings/

    I have separate learn to crochet playlists for left-handed demos and right-handed demos.

  • I recommend starting with a tube yarn, for example Loops & Threads Cuddle Craft Tube yarn from Michael’s. This is the type of yarn used in Woobles kits. Tube yarn is very difficult to split and will have great stitch definition.

    If you don’t have access to a tube yarn or want something that is more versatile in terms of what kinds of projects it’s suited for, I recommend looking for a plied, dense 100% cotton yarn in weight 4 or thicker such as Cascade brand Nifty Cotton yarn.

    Pick a yarn color that is light or bright so you can easily see your stitches.

    You should get a yarn that is at least “weight 4” / “worsted weight”. A yarn that says it is “aran weight” or “bulky weight” / “weight 5” is also good.

    Avoid – extremely chunky yarns (anything that is listed as “jumbo” or “weight 7”) because these are often either very heavy, very textured, or so soft and lofty that they will pill/shred easily.

    Avoid – fuzzy yarn like chenille yarn when learning to crochet, as it is harder to see stitches in textured yarn.

  • (If you’re a beginner with “worsted weight yarn” aka “weight 4 yarn” aka “medium yarn”, I recommend using a 5.0 mm hook.)

    Crochet hook sizes are specified in millimeters or by a letter or other label, for example “5.5 mm hook” or “I-9 hook”. The mm refers to the width of the hook shaft. The wider the hook, the bigger size (looser) stitches it will make. For the same yarn, using a bigger hook will create an airier fabric, and using a smaller hook will create a denser fabric.

    Usually a yarn’s label will recommend a hook size that will result in a specific number of stitches per inch (the “gauge” or “tension”). That size hook or similar will usually be a comfortable starting point. You can look up the conversion between letter names and millimeters with the chart from the Craft Yarn Council.

    If the yarn label only has a mm recommendation for knitting needle size, you can try that size or a hook 0.5-1 mm larger.

    If you are making amigurumi, a bag, a basket, or another object where it will be more functional if the stitches are tight, go at least 1.0 mm smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label. For example, for worsted weight / weight 4 yarn, instead of a 4.5-5.0 mm hook, I usually use a 3.0-3.5 mm hook for amigurumi and bags.

    Ultimately, the hook size on the yarn label is a suggestion. Make swatches using a few different hooks and use the size that results in the fabric that feels best for that particular project.

  • You may not immediately use everything on this list, but they’ll probably be helpful to have on hand at some point as you continue crocheting things.

    • Stitch markers – helpful for counting long sections of stitches or marking important parts of a project. You can also use safety pins, paperclips, or bobby pins for this. If buying stitch markers, only buy the ones that can open and close. The closed rings only work for knitting.

    • Tapestry needle – These have blunt ends that won’t split yarn, and are larger than needles you would typically use for thread. This makes them suitable to weave in yarn ends when completing a project or sew components together.

    • Scissors – You don’t need specialty scissors, but having a small pair that you only use to cut yarn and thread (so it stays sharp) that lives with your craft stuff is easier than having to hunt for the Good Scissors every time you need to cut yarn. Search for “embroidery scissors” or “snips”.

    • Tape measure – To measure rounded parts of projects or your body if you are making garments. 

    • Kitchen scale – Helpful to figure out what percentage of a yarn ball you have used and if you will need more yarn for a project, given the swatch or portion of the project you have completed.

    • Yarn winder and swift – not required (check out this YouTube video for tips on winding yarn by hand), but if you end up buying a lot of yarn online that isn’t pre-wound, these will make it easier to wind into a usable form. Read more about these tools on the Aabhar Creations blog.

    • Ravelry.com’s pattern database allows you to filter by difficulty as well as lots of other attributes like free/paid, recommended hook size, written/video, yarn type, and yarn amount, which is super helpful. It’s free, but you’ll need to sign up for an account.

      • This website is more focused on knitting than crochet – just because there are not a lot of crochet patterns compared to knitting patterns on Ravelry does not mean that those patterns don’t exist.

    • You can also find many great crochet patterns and tutorials  on Etsy, YouTube, and personal websites/blogs which are not listed in the Ravelry database.

      • I have collected some beginner-friendly crochet patterns in this YouTube playlist.

      • To learn fancier stitch combinations, check out the Crochet with Aabhar online stitch dictionary. My personal favorite stitch dictionary is Crochet Every Which Way Stitch Dictionary by Dora Ohrenstein.

    • Yarn retailers such as Lion Brand, Hobbii, Cascade Yarns, Universal Yarn, and Yarnspirations also have free patterns.

    • Libraries often have stitch dictionaries and pattern books too!

  • If you are substituting a different yarn than what’s recommended by a pattern, a good starting point is finding one with the same “weight” and at least a similar fiber content.

    “Weight” in this context refers to the thickness of the yarn, for example “worsted weight” or “weight 4” – you can reference the Craft Yarn Council’s weight system chart. The amount of yarn needed for a project is usually specified as “yardage” or “meterage”. Learn more about yarn weights from this TL Yarn Crafts video.


    Check out the Yarn Sub guide on things to consider when choosing yarn for a project. You can also input a specific yarn on this site to find other yarn with similar properties.

  • Most patterns will include a description of the stitches and general techniques they use. Look up tutorials for the techniques you are unfamiliar with to get a sense of how tricky they might be to learn. The more new-to-you techniques you are required to do in combination, the more difficult a project will feel.

  • Independent yarn stores often host free crafting meetups. These are sometimes called “knit night”,”knitting circle”, “crafting social”, “stitch and bitch”, “sit and knit”, or similar and should be open to any portable craft including crocheting even if the name only specifies knitting. These can be a fun place to work on projects or get some practice stitching in while getting to know other people who share the hobby.

    In the East Bay, check out:

  • “Frogging” a project means unraveling it – i.e. you “rip it” (“ribbit”) out.

  • If you sit like a goblin for 5 hours without taking a break, crocheting will hurt. If you start feeling stiff or sore from crocheting, take a break! Shake out your hands, stretch out your fingers, stand up and stretch!  Crocheting should never hurt.

    Set a timer if necessary to ensure you take a break before you feel discomfort, and be mindful of your posture and grip intensity throughout a crochet session. Your grip intensity should reflect that you are holding yarn, not holding an angry snake.

    Check out @theknittingpt on Instagram for tips on how to keep it ergonomic!

  • You HAVE to breathe. You don’t HAVE to count the stitches every row.

    You just need to accept that the less frequently you count or check your stitches, the more stitches you potentially need to remake if you realize you made a mistake.

    Truly, if you are nonchalant about redoing sections of a project, then it’s fine to only count if you feel like something’s off. But if you are going to cry if you have to frog more than one row, you should count the stitches after each row.

Reading Crochet Patterns

I have videos demonstrating how to read patterns (with charts) in rows and in rounds.

  • Basics of Written Crochet Patterns

    Written patterns almost always use abbreviations, e.g. instead of “make 2 double crochet stitches, 2 chain stitches, 2 double crochet stitches” it will say “2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc”. A pattern should include a key for the abbreviations, but these are usually similar for basic stitches. The most common abbreviations are listed on the Craft Yarn Council site. The variation is usually in how the author designates increases, decreases, and repeats.

    Generally, an instruction like “3 dc” means “make 1 dc into both loops the next available stitch in the row below; do this 3 times total”, not “make 3 dc into the next stitch”. You can think of it like “3 dc” expands to “3x‍ ‍dc‍ ‍worked regularly” with the “worked regularly” omitted if formatted as “how many of what stitch to make and where to place them”.

    If the stitch is attached somewhere other than through both loops of the next stitch, or you are meant to place multiple stitches into one stitch, that should be specified either locally (for example “3 dc in back loop only, 3 dc in front loop only” or “make 3 sc into the next stitch”) or globally (e.g. there is a note applying to the whole pattern like “All stitches are worked in the back loops only unless otherwise specified”).

    Tips for reading patterns

    • US and UK use different terms for the same stitches (e.g. what US calls “single crochet” is called a “double crochet” in UK terms). Check the key before you start! There is a translation chart at the bottom of the CYC abbreviations page/

    • Often chain stitch instructions are formatted as “ch4” instead of “4 ch” for the instruction “make 4 chain stitches”.

    • Use a highlighter to mark repeat sections if they use difficult to parse notation.

    • If a pattern is confusing, try reading it out loud. What is the simplest thing this could mean? It’s probably that.

  • If you want to make anything other than a rectangle, you will need to make rows or rounds that contain increases (putting more than one stitch into a single stitch in the previous row) and/or decreases (working 1 stitch over 2 or more stitches in the previous row).

    When you DECREASE, you REMOVE VOLUME  at that part of the fabric (the fabric pinches in).

    When you INCREASE you ADD VOLUME at that part of the fabric (the fabric flares outward).

    If a pattern wants you to increase, the two common notations are

    • Verbose syntax – It will tell you how many to do (e.g. “make 3 dc into the next stitch”)

    • “inc” syntax – “1 inc” means “2 stitches into the same stitch”. Which stitch (e.g. sc, hdc, dc…) should be given in an accompanying chart or key.

    If a pattern wants you to decrease, common notations are

    • “stNtog” syntax – e.g. “sc2tog” for “single crochet 2 stitches together” or “dc5tog” for “double crochet 5 stitches together

    • “dec” syntax – “1 dec” means “make 1 stitch over the next 2 stitches” and the pattern should include instructions on the particular method they want you to use.

    You can search for tutorials on specific types of decreases as needed in a pattern, e.g. “dc2tog” or “invisible decrease”.

  • Two common ways to indicate repeating sequences of stitches are with brackets and with asterisks. There are variations these, but they will be similar to the following.

    Bracket Notation / Parenthesis Notation

    This is the method I prefer to use because I find it easier to skim, especially when there are nested repeated stitch sequences.

    [instructions]*N = Work the stitches in instructions a total of N times. For examples “[1 dc, 2 ch]*3” is equivalent to “1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch”

    Asterisk Notation

    (Here I am using a “✿” instead of a “*” because Squarespace does not have an option to remove automatic formatting in accordion blocks.)

    “✿ 1 dc, 2 ch repeat from ✿ 2 additional times” = “1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch.”

  • Charted patterns use symbols, and will also include a key. Check out the guide to crochet charts on Yarnspirations. These are common in stitch dictionaries and helpful to supplement written directions in project patterns as you can quickly see what the shape of the result is, but it’s less common to find entirely charted projects.

    Tips for reading charts

    • Generally the first row is at the bottom and you are meant to work upwards. If the pattern is in rounds, start in the center and work outwards.

    • If a stitch appears to be worked into a chain stitch, unless otherwise specified, work around the entire stitch (“work into the chain space”) and not into the ch stitch loops.

    • Rounds are commonly joined at the end/beginning using a slip stitch (this is useful if the start of rounds is not explicitly labeled).

FAQ

These are in fact not frequently asked, but the answers are here in case you need them.

  • I don’t usually teach intermediate/advanced group classes. It’s hard to get enough enrollment for these classes (you need people at the specific level, in a specific geographic location, who are available at a specific time, who are interested in a specific topic).

    I offer private lessons at ImagiKnit Berkeley where I am happy to help you with a tricky pattern or plan out a project.

  • My personal favorite is the Tulip Etimo crochet hooks (I have the “murasaski” purple ones).

    I find the shape of the head a good medium size (smoother than Susan Bates hooks and not as chunky as Boye hooks) and I like the somewhat matte texture of the handles. The heads on these are a little pointier than on the Clover Amour hooks, which makes it easier to do slip stitches or when working at a very fine gauge.

    However, the Etimo hooks are expensive and hard to find in the US, so I would say that unless you are specifically doing a lot of slip stitch work or lace weight work, the Clover Amour is the best overall choice. The KnitPro Waves 2.0 line or any generic aluminum hook with an ergonomic handle is also good, though I find that the handles on the Waves hooks are flatter in shape and a smoother texture than I personally prefer.

    I would avoid the Susan Bates hooks as in my experience many beginners end up snagging yarn more easily with inline hooks that have a sharp/deep cut shape.

  • These are designers who publish written patterns

    The following YouTube channels are not in English, but the beauty of crochet is that if you learn basic counting and the words for “stitch” and “row”, you can follow tutorials in different languages!

    Unless otherwise specified, they are primarily garment and accessory pattern channels.

  • I like different yarns for different projects!

    Generally, for warm weather garments I like a plied* weight 0 or a weight 1 yarn in 100% mercerized cotton. Circulo brand Anne yarn is a solid option, but I wish it was milled to be a more consistent thickness / smoother and that it had fewer knots per ball on average.

    I overheat easily and live in California, so for sweaters my ideal yarn is a weight 2 or weight 3 in a (60/40, 50/50, or 40/60) cotton/wool blend. A yarn with a cotton/acrylic blend in a similar ratio also works.

    Like many people, I also enjoy a merino wool yarn. Texturally, I usually prefer non-superwash processed merino wool, but in practice I am allergic to dust mites and need to frequently wash garments, so I sometimes go for superwash processed wool if it isn’t essential that the garment keeps its structure throughout the day when worn (i.e. I would use it for positive ease but not negative ease garments). I also find that the color palette I like is often not available in non-superwash wool.

    For amigurumi and bags, I prefer a plied 100% cotton yarn, preferrably mercerized. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton would be my go-to. Raffia yarn (or more commonly, any of the celluose-based tape yarns that are not technically raffia but are sold as such) makes a lighter weight bag but it is annoying to work with because the yarn rolls tend to fall apart easily (tip: do an outside pull but keep the ball in a ziploc bag). If I do use raffia, I like the Wool and the Gang brand Ra-Ra Raffia as it has a color selection I find appealing, but IMO it is overpriced.

    My favorite indie brand of fancy hand dyed yarn is The Wandering Flock, because they offer luxurious yarn bases in colors like neon lilac and acid green. For a still fancy but more accessibly priced and available yarn, I like any of the Malabrigo brand yarns that come in the colorways Periwinkle, Fucsia, Apple Green, Lettuce, and Nimbus Grey.

    *Note that when I say “plies” that refers to the number of strands that are twisted together to form the yarn, not the overall thickness. Some countries traditionally use the number of plies to describe the yarn thickness (e.g. 8-ply is a DK weight / weight 3), but you can have a yarn constructed with 4 plies that is thicker than another yarn that is also constructed with 4 plies.

  • I crochet right-handed but I write left-handed and generally favor my left side.

    I originally tried to learn crocheting left-handed, but as most illustrations and photos only show right-handed instructions I ended up switching to right-handed crochet for simplicity. I can crochet left-handed, but awkwardly.

Contact

Still have questions about group classes or private lessons? Got a suggestion for a workshop I should teach? Please reach out! Note that if you want to BOOK a lesson, you should do that through the ImagiKnit website rather than contacting me directly.