📺 https://www.youtube.com/@MargaretMakesThings/

I have separate learn to crochet playlists for left-handed demos and right-handed demos.

I recommend starting with a tube yarn, for example Loops & Threads Cuddle Craft Tube yarn from Michael’s. This is the type of yarn used in Woobles kits. Tube yarn is very difficult to split and will have great stitch definition.

If you don’t have access to a tube yarn or want something that is more versatile in terms of what kinds of projects it’s suited for, I recommend looking for a plied, dense 100% cotton yarn in weight 4 or thicker such as Cascade brand Nifty Cotton yarn.

Pick a yarn color that is light or bright so you can easily see your stitches.

You should get a yarn that is at least “weight 4” / “worsted weight”. A yarn that says it is “aran weight” or “bulky weight” / “weight 5” is also good.

Avoid – extremely chunky yarns (anything that is listed as “jumbo” or “weight 7”) because these are often either very heavy, very textured, or so soft and lofty that they will pill/shred easily.

Avoid – fuzzy yarn like chenille yarn when learning to crochet, as it is harder to see stitches in textured yarn.

(If you’re a beginner with “worsted weight yarn” aka “weight 4 yarn” aka “medium yarn”, I recommend using a 5.0 mm hook.)

Crochet hook sizes are specified in millimeters or by a letter or other label, for example “5.5 mm hook” or “I-9 hook”. The mm refers to the width of the hook shaft. The wider the hook, the bigger size (looser) stitches it will make. For the same yarn, using a bigger hook will create an airier fabric, and using a smaller hook will create a denser fabric.

Usually a yarn’s label will recommend a hook size that will result in a specific number of stitches per inch (the “gauge” or “tension”). That size hook or similar will usually be a comfortable starting point. You can look up the conversion between letter names and millimeters with the chart from the Craft Yarn Council.

If the yarn label only has a mm recommendation for knitting needle size, you can try that size or a hook 0.5-1 mm larger.

If you are making amigurumi, a bag, a basket, or another object where it will be more functional if the stitches are tight, go at least 1.0 mm smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label. For example, for worsted weight / weight 4 yarn, instead of a 4.5-5.0 mm hook, I usually use a 3.0-3.5 mm hook for amigurumi and bags.

Ultimately, the hook size on the yarn label is a suggestion. Make swatches using a few different hooks and use the size that results in the fabric that feels best for that particular project.

You may not immediately use everything on this list, but they’ll probably be helpful to have on hand at some point as you continue crocheting things.

• Stitch markers – helpful for counting long sections of stitches or marking important parts of a project. You can also use safety pins, paperclips, or bobby pins for this. If buying stitch markers, only buy the ones that can open and close. The closed rings only work for knitting.

• Tapestry needle – These have blunt ends that won’t split yarn, and are larger than needles you would typically use for thread. This makes them suitable to weave in yarn ends when completing a project or sew components together.

• Scissors – You don’t need specialty scissors, but having a small pair that you only use to cut yarn and thread (so it stays sharp) that lives with your craft stuff is easier than having to hunt for the Good Scissors every time you need to cut yarn. Search for “embroidery scissors” or “snips”.

• Tape measure – To measure rounded parts of projects or your body if you are making garments. 

• Kitchen scale – Helpful to figure out what percentage of a yarn ball you have used and if you will need more yarn for a project, given the swatch or portion of the project you have completed.

• Yarn winder and swift – not required (check out this YouTube video for tips on winding yarn by hand), but if you end up buying a lot of yarn online that isn’t pre-wound, these will make it easier to wind into a usable form. Read more about these tools on the Aabhar Creations blog.

• Ravelry.com’s pattern database allows you to filter by difficulty as well as lots of other attributes like free/paid, recommended hook size, written/video, yarn type, and yarn amount, which is super helpful. It’s free, but you’ll need to sign up for an account.

  • This website is more focused on knitting than crochet – just because there are not a lot of crochet patterns compared to knitting patterns on Ravelry does not mean that those patterns don’t exist.

• You can also find many great crochet patterns and tutorials  on Etsy, YouTube, and personal websites/blogs which are not listed in the Ravelry database.

  • VivCrochets and Cherilyn Q have a lot of beginner-friendly video tutorials for clothing and accessories.

  • To learn fancier stitch combinations, check out the Crochet with Aabhar online stitch dictionary. My personal favorite stitch dictionary is Crochet Every Which Way Stitch Dictionary by Dora Ohrenstein.

• Yarn retailers such as Lion Brand, Hobbii, Cascade Yarns, Universal Yarn, and Yarnspirations also have free patterns.

• Libraries often have stitch dictionaries and pattern books too!

Some of my personal favorites are in the “Which crochet designers do you follow?” section below.

If you are substituting a different yarn than what’s recommended by a pattern, a good starting point is finding one with the same “weight” and at least a similar fiber content.

“Weight” in this context refers to the thickness of the yarn, for example “worsted weight” or “weight 4” – you can reference the Craft Yarn Council’s weight system chart. The amount of yarn needed for a project is usually specified as “yardage” or “meterage”. Learn more about yarn weights from this TL Yarn Crafts video.

Check out the Yarn Sub guide on things to consider when choosing yarn for a project. You can also input a specific yarn on this site to find other yarn with similar properties.

Written patterns almost always use abbreviations, e.g. instead of “make 2 double crochet stitches, 2 chain stitches, 2 double crochet stitches” it will say “2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc”. A pattern should include a key for the abbreviations, but these are usually similar for basic stitches. The most common abbreviations are listed on the Craft Yarn Council site. The variation is usually in how the author designates increases, decreases, and repeats.

Generally, an instruction like “3 dc” means “make 1 dc into both loops the next available stitch in the row below; do this 3 times total”, not “make 3 dc into the next stitch”. You can think of it like “3 dc” expands to “3x‍ ‍dc‍ ‍worked regularly” with the “worked regularly” omitted if formatted as “how many of what stitch to make and where to place them”.

If the stitch is attached somewhere other than through both loops of the next stitch, or you are meant to place multiple stitches into one stitch, that should be specified either locally (e.g. “3 dc in back loop only, 3 dc in front loop only”) or globally (e.g. there is a note applying to the whole pattern like “All stitches are worked in the back loops only unless otherwise specified”).

Charted patterns use symbols, and will also include a key. Check out the guide to crochet charts on Yarnspirations. These are common in stitch dictionaries and helpful to supplement written directions in project patterns as you can quickly see what the shape of the result is, but it’s less common to find entirely charted projects.

Tips for reading written patterns

• US and UK use different terms for the same stitches (e.g. what US calls “single crochet” is called a “double crochet” in UK terms). Check the key before you start! There is a translation chart at the bottom of the CYC abbreviations page/

• Often chain stitch instructions are formatted as “ch4” instead of “4 ch” for the instruction “make 4 chain stitches”.

• Use a highlighter to mark repeat sections if they use difficult to parse notation.

• If a pattern is confusing, try reading it out loud. What is the simplest thing this could mean? It’s probably that.

Tips for reading charted patterns

• Generally the first row is at the bottom and you are meant to work upwards. If the pattern is in rounds, start in the center and work outwards.

• If a stitch appears to be worked into a chain stitch, unless otherwise specified, work around the entire stitch (“work into the chain space”) and not into the ch stitch loops.

• Rounds are commonly joined at the end/beginning using a slip stitch (this is useful if the start of rounds is not explicitly labeled).

Most patterns will include a description of the stitches and general techniques they use. Look up tutorials for the techniques you are unfamiliar with to get a sense of how tricky they might be to learn. The more new-to-you techniques you are required to do in combination, the more difficult a project will feel.

Independent yarn stores often host free crafting meetups. These are sometimes called “knit night”,”knitting circle”, “crafting social”, “stitch and bitch”, “sit and knit”, or similar and should be open to any portable craft including crocheting even if the name only specifies knitting. These can be a fun place to work on projects or get some practice stitching in while getting to know other people who share the hobby.

In the East Bay, check out:

• ImagiKnit East

• Avenue Yarns

• Black Squirrel Berkeley

• Coven of Stitches

• Berkeley Public Library

“Frogging” a project means unraveling it – i.e. you “rip it” (“ribbit”) out.

If you sit like a goblin for 5 hours without taking a break, crocheting will hurt. If you start feeling stiff or sore from crocheting, take a break! Shake out your hands, stretch out your fingers, stand up and stretch!  Crocheting should never hurt.

Set a timer if necessary to ensure you take a break before you feel discomfort, and be mindful of your posture and grip intensity throughout a crochet session. Your grip intensity should reflect that you are holding yarn, not holding an angry snake.

Check out @theknittingpt on Instagram for tips on how to keep it ergonomic!

You HAVE to breathe. You don’t HAVE to count the stitches every row.

You just need to accept that the less frequently you count or check your stitches, the more stitches you potentially need to remake if you realize you made a mistake.

Truly, if you are nonchalant about redoing sections of a project, then it’s fine to only count if you feel like something’s off. But if you are going to cry if you have to frog more than one row, you should count the stitches after each row.